I am Japanese who attached Sniper EFI. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is now between 2 and 5 exactly where it should be. it seems to ramp to 60 psi on the initial prime, but as soon as the motor start the psi spikes.I guess a workaround would be an inline return/filter regulator? Great work, expert! Be sure to re-enable it once you get your idle tuned. I did all of this before seeing the link you sent. No air should be able to pass. The throttle plates are misaligned. Others might require 60 RPM. I have an entire article on choosing between Sniper and Terminator X throttle body solutions and while Sniper is still a sound choice for some applications, Terminator X (with transmission control) is hands-down the way to go for those who need that. My issue is that the TP% will not reset with key cycle and its idleing at 9% TP. Some suggestions: i did have the same problem.try lengthening the lever of the throttle.meaning the length from the center of the throttle to the point where you attach your cable or your rod from the peddle. You will need to change the -40 degree idle speed setting again but I recommend not touching anything else. If you have somehow overlooked this, start here: Holley Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions: Once the engine is up to operating temperature, the idle speed can be set to what was configured in the Wizard. It sounds to me like it is way retarded.In the event that the timing is right then take a look at your AFR--the actual AFR, not the target. As soon as I got the new one installed and wiredit fired right up and did everything it was suppose to do with no issues. Copyright 2017 Cyberspace Automotive Performance, Inc. All Rights Reserved. About two minutes after I get it set at 850 & 5%, it has progressed to 100%. Hi. Thanks again. Check the Distributor Tach Connection to the EFI. The learn function will offset the base fuel table until the closed-loop compensation only requires minimal changes. In the Wizard, select the stock cam setting. Not to bandstand here but this is the point when where you bought your system is so important. My IAC and TPS show zero when it does this. Since the load is more of a wave that increases the most initially and then decreases again, the ECU is doing really well to get the idle under control in only two or three over/under shots as you describe.You don't mention if you have your Sniper ECU controlling timing. Hi I wish I had bought from you but I didn't find this site until now. I have a set of 8.8 Accel Rfi suppression wires on it. Since that has long been corrected we have moved that information to the bottom of the article.). Now that you've got your IAC set I'm going to recommend that you run your setup wizard again, which will reset the ECU to the default settings. As you see above, the Sniper is going to dump in a maximum amount of fuel at zero TPS, begins to remove acceleration enrichment at 60 percent TPS, and then removes all acceleration enrichment correction at 100% TPS. Don't know if I should put this in a separate post. We will definitely be sticking with Holley from here on out for future retro-fits. Has a good size camshaft cant find any vacuum leaks. Cracked casing from a side cover screw being installed crossed threaded. At this time, TPS is 0%, IAC is 50 to 60%. With select intake manifolds, the distributor housing and IAC valve on the back of the Sniper EFI throttle body are fighting for the same . Good I have tried your 10-step idle adjust and ive adjusted the idle curve. Even at 0% it's sucking a bunch of air through the IAC port. I have verified that there are no vacuum leaks, not to mention the car runs to good to have a vacuum leak bad enough to make this noise. nothing stays steady. They are prone to be inaccurate. If you've been running a filter then you have to wonder if you have a legitimate Walbro pump.If you install a new pump and the noise is still coming from the Sniper EFI System then only the dealer who sold you your system can help you. I was shocked to see it at 95lbs!! I have seen this become blocked with debris / dirt in the fuel system and cause a high fuel pressure condition . Shut it off and immediately restarted and idle was now 880 with IAC at 8.If this is a vacuum leak I can't figure out what would cause it to go away immediately after shutting down the car and restarting. Um, no. Those little 1/8 NPT gauges are pretty inexpensive and generally pretty easy to find locally.If you confirm that the pressure is indeed 90 PSI you could pull the fuel pressure regulator apart and check it. That will at least tell you something. The jack-rabbit start can usually be minimized by adjusting the throttle linkage. The first place my eyes go when there is any issue with the idle is to the TPS value. If you get into the practice of hearing all three of these sounds you will know if you have a problem even before you turn the key to crank. With everything else being right and since you can make it start by adding fuel it seems like you must have some sort of fuel pressure issue. This will let you know at a glance if something is going awry with the fuel pump. The person I bought it from said he never could get it to run for more than a few seconds. Some have suggested mis-setting sets the idle speed at 850 RPM but I suspect it is not a fixed number but rather a delta of about 300 RPM above the target. I have driven it a few times maybe 100 miles or so. Hopefully replacing the pump again will resolve both issuesWhoa. Which means you either need to increase that number or increase the ramp decay time. Robust, feature-rich multi-port EFI systems offer easy plug-and-play late-model V8 engine swaps. Overview. The noise is definitely coming OUT of the throttle body. Seems to behave more better now. The IAC is hanging open and not really at 0. By the time I was near home, the idle in Park was 1050, IAC 0. ?I never had my Carb Cold start RPM any higher then 1600 RPM.THANK YOU. mail today. You are aware of the idle-up problem. The manifold pressure increases with the throttle opening but the RPMs are still low. Then you can take a close look at the IAC and see if it is opening. Next, clean the IAC and all related parts with brake cleaner. Next, reach down into the secondaries and push the butterflies closed. During cruising at 30 miles and release the gas pedal the engine revs at aproximaly 1500 RPM and it won't drop. it will jerk and rpm will go up and down and AFR will be around 20 : 1 or more or less. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. If I put the truck in park it comes down to idle. WIthout knowing quite a bit more it will be more than challenging for you to identify the problem and solve it.Fortunately, Holley provides their amazing Sniper Software. I installed another return spring for the rear plates problem solved instantly. RPM = 1200My slow gear I leave with 650 RPM, the IAC Position I leave between 5 and 6%, the If the screen shows iac at 0 and you block the hole to find it open what does that mean? You could go either way.. You will have to do this until the TPS stays at 0% when the throttle is closed. i would have been happy to answer there. I had that problem, right out of the box it would not power up, sent it back in, had defective hand held. If you go the other way then you might find that the IAC zero's out when the fans are off. I installed the Holley Sniper in my Chevelle this winter with a brand new BluePrint 496. I have replaced the IAC motor and the problem remains. Both answers you've received greatly oversimplify the truth in favor of the answerer. Yes, let me know how that setup process works. Any help would b great. After it starts it idles around my 960rpm setting + or - 100rpm. It appears that I could now use the dongle and a laptop to custom tune for idle issues if needed. Let me be perfectly clear: If your engine will not drop below 1350 RPM with the idle speed screw turned all the way out then you have an air leak. Okay, try my method. The very first thing I would do is get ground truth on your timing. Properly configured, the Sniper does a fantastic job of responding to the transition from Park to Drive. I'd recommend you contact Holley Tech support to get their input (1-866-464-6553; call early for the shortest wait times.) Holley Sniper EFI Troubleshooting Mudford Garage 8.6K subscribers 38K views 3 years ago My Bronco with Holley Sniper EFI was running poorly. Do I need to try taping up the IAC port and setting the idle off the idle screw? It might be necessary to insulate or re-route your fuel lines if this can't be solved any other way. If you don't have a working coolant temperature sensor then it will never bring the idle speed down. I never had a problem with this. Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. :-) Just don't let the parts go flying. (Don't drive and watch--get a helper!) Once it decides to come back down, it does so with no issue. That initial rev is going to be determined by your IAC Park Position. )If you rule out a fuel supply issue then we're going to have to gather a few more clues. Holley Idle Air Control Motor Idle Air Control Motor Fits the Following Applications: Sniper EFI 90 mm, 92 mm, 102 mm Throttle Bodies Digital Pro-Jection Systems Avenger 4-bbl TBI Commander 950 Terminator TBI I would only play with this if you are finding that the other adjustments I suggested aren't working. Im not sure what its doing, have messed with after start fuel, fuel at cranking. What an amazing site you have here. around 45 mph it bogs down, catches itself, bogs, catches, bogs and catches. :-DStill, I hate to leave someone hanging so I'll try to help. It drops about 200rpm when clutch engages. A common issue we see is a result of poor fuel pump grounding running a eyelet from the pump ground to a rusty or painted surface. ps. But if you will just advance the timing at idle and see if it makes a difference then that will tell you what you need to know. After only running for about 15 minutes or so the system starts to fail stalling the motor. Let's start by not assuming anything. If I keep the rpm's up it does fine but my clutch can't keep up with this for long.Also when I cover the IAC port the engine dies. Enjoy! I have double checked everythingincluding fuel pressureand have followed the directions to a T.I plan on trying your 10 step process as soon as I get a chance. Key, I believe, in this success is solid connections, resistance-free signal and ground paths, and solid RFI rejection. I've changed all the So this is my issue ( I did just email Holly). The only way to do this is by installing a mechanical fuel pressure gauge. It's all part of the pleasure of EFI. The IAC reads 36 when at idle fully warmed up. It turns out that some of the Snipers are shipping with the minus 40-degree setting drastically lower, as shown in the following image. It is probably that your RPM above the maximum point at which ramp-down can occur. The fix? The Sniper EFI replacement throttle body for Autolite 1100 carburetors will be right at home on most early in-line 6 cylinder powered grocery getters or weekend cruisers. After speaking with Holley Tech Support and Tech Support from where I purchased the systemthey decided to replace it. Were the additional load a simple step function it would be challenge enough for the ECU to gracefully increase the engine speed without overshooting. Glad to hear that you have timing control enabled, Gary. While it is not mandatory, I recommend the Sniper EFI CAN-to-USB Adapter to move the data between your Sniper EFI and your PC rather than trying to do this via the SD card. The only way to confirm RFI problems is by doing a data log. For someone in your position, it will become an indispensable tool in your tool box. MSD pro billet and 6AL box But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. Any idea's? Give them a call and if they are unable to provide customer support the contact the Holley tech support line at 1-866-464-6553. I think that your timing is too retarded. Thanks in advance for any advice. Hi Chris I didn't get any traction on Holley.com Thank you for your input. When you set the Static Timing to 15, what did you read with the timing light? If I block off the iac with tape , I can get it to somewhat idle, but its not consistent. Usually it wont stay on 0% very long and soon changes to another number like 1 or 2%. I enalble the idle timing control and fired it back up Iac was at 32% but it would come back down after a bit to around 26%. If the TPS is 1% or below then the air is coming from somewhere else. Part# 538-13. It is always best to get the base map as close as possible before adding acceleration enrichment. If you get into the practice of hearing all three of these sounds you will know if you have a problem even before you turn the key to crank. Though it started and ran good, it was dumping fuel and would not lean out to AFR set points. All in all, considering the system has been installed for less than 2 hours drive time we're BLOWN AWAY at how quickly it is "learning" this engine. You have to remove all hoses in order to debug the problem. Mechanical Fuel Pressure Gauge on the inlet of your Sniper, now is the time. If you did not rotate the distributor to set the actual timing to 15 that might be the only issue. I recently install a sniper efi. I drove it a bunch more yesterday afternoon/evening and the same thing happened several times. have noticed on the hand held is that Air/fuel Ratio rises to 20 +/- A/F and the Reply Quote. Since the shield was put on, not a single problem, not one. The resulting resistance can burn up fuel pumps, wiring and relays. Edit I just ordered a Holley return / regulator and cap for the sniper ouletOh, this is not an OEM Master Kit, but the fuel pump should be the same EFI Pro shipped this kit. )So before I hook up another gauge to see if the Auto Meter is bad (assuming I can find a 0-100 test gauge in my shop). It is working fine when you restart the car, controlling idle perfectly at 8 steps open so it is unlikely to fail when the car warms up--or correct itself instantly when you restart it..So, if you don't have any vacuum leak, and the throttle plates are fully closed, the only thing I can guess is something is causing your ignition timing to change. If the vendor from whom you bought the system is coming up blank on ideas then don't hesitate to contact Holley's outstanding tech support department directly at 866-464-6553. My problem with the sniper is the whistling and hard throttle pedal, I have a 700r tranny with a kick down cable. I have probably 200 - 300 miles on this engine and it has always done this. Very annoying ended up being simple my rear plates would stay open constantly it was driving me nuts I'd let off the pedal idle at 1300 blip the throttle a few times finally come back to 850. Thank you for any advice. I am new to the EFI scene but want to learn. As I would slow down for a stop sign or stop light, the car would run really rough and the idle did not want to come down. Always had to set idle above 950. Some advanced conceptsIf you have the Sniper Can-Bus to USB Adapter, you can connect your laptop, open the software to the learn table, and get a visual for where in the table you are experiencing the lean bog. Once you so this, and after you have your CAN-to-USB harness attached to your laptop with the Sniper software, you can see precisely the cells where the system is operating when the bog occurs. the gas it catches itself and runs fine at slower speeds. When you first posted this I had no idea how to respond. First, recognize that the IAC and the TPS are not inter-related in any way. issue. I, too, wish you'd bought your Sniper from us! This is extremely unreliable afrer warm. If you drop it too far the engine will stumble or stall when coming off the throttle with the car out of gear, so you'll know when you've gone too far. So I have been driving it for about 400 miles now to numerous car shows and going out for cruises around town, trying to work some of the bugs out from everything we did this winter, but I notice when I take off from a stop sign or I cruise at a very low speed (say30 mph) it seems to be very boggy from no throttle to about 1/8th throttle. Why is this? This only happens when coming to a stop and the idle is ramping down to the set idle RPM. When the system is up and running the fuel pressure regulator inside the Sniper is making a rattling sound like a shaking a paint can. I recently detached the TP sensor from the side of the sniper to physically move it and it still would struggle to get to 0%. Your second problem should be a bit more concerning. Super helpful and knowledgeable. (Plus they it just looks way cool in your engine compartment!) As I said above, you could have a bad IAC, but then again, the IAC might be fine and there's a deeper problem such as RFI noise causing the issue or a vacuum leak that is confusing things. Your suggestion to remove the PCV valve is just for diagnosis purposes, right? I didn't find your site until I was having trouble. It started right up and we did your idle control fix and all is good at idle. Hello, Chris, thanks for the help.I have not installed the software yet, and I'm having trouble with two cars. mean that the IAC is causing it. What could be the cause? Resistance results in heat and heat results in more resistance. These problems will go away when you do that. But I wanted to go ahead and answer this so that it would make sense to someone who might not go that route.I think the first thing I'd do is try another pressure gauge. It's called tuning. Idle > IAC Kick. We're never going to fill up your email box with nonsense. You'll have to go back and forth a couple of times to get it just right. I have turned ignition off turned screw in 2 turns and turned ignition back on and tps is at 1-2% not sure whats going on. If it creates an issue (not normally the case) then you'll know. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I notice at 2-3% tps the iac is 18-25% and it stumbles, when the iac gets to my hold position of 30 it stops. Remove the tape from the IAC breather hole and restart the engine. Since it is unlikely that anything else changed it is most likely the IAC is problematic or the butterflies are not shut all the way. I'll have to check again tomorrow. Thank you. Really appreciate the amount of learning im getting off here. In the datalog the engine is running at 1400 RPM, TPS is zero, IAC is zero, CTS is 185F but it's in Open Loop. Hopefully replacing the pump again will resolve both issues. This is a mighty big subject for a blog post reply, I should probably start doing some videos on this. Or alternator? But if I take off from a stop and go to 1/4 or 1/2 throttle its fine and takes off like a banshee. I ask because I'm using a PCV valve with my Sniper and have random idle issues as well. It is a common one. Thank you very much. Hello Chris. That changes almost instantly as the engine revs.Since the learning algorithm requires some time exposure to a certain condition to make larger changes, that half-second makes only the smallest impact. In addition to avoiding this particular problem, the total solution is much better. Is that normal? Turning it off and back on would reset it, and then it would work as advertised for a while. It has a lightweight centrifugal spring kit installed so I reach total timing around 2500 rpm. Covered the IAC port and set idle for 850 ish. THANK YOU for the "First--Check Your Idle Speed Curve Setting!" Holley Sniper IAC Surging???? Even 50 RPM can make a difference in how much impact the transition to Drive has on the idling engine's ability to stay at a fixed RPM.I would not recommend it in this situation but anytime a "kick" in idle speed is desired that is easily done by setting the kick value in Tuning > Advanced > Adv. Plus, you can email that file to me and I can be of more help. It is good to at least know that the Sniper fuel pressure regulator can have high pressure failure issues (contrary to what I posted to Scott back on April 13th!) Ensure all your sensors are displaying proper values. Shut off the engine, ensure power to the Sniper is switched off. It is reliant on the data acquired by the included wideband oxygen sensor. This is Intermittent meaning, I can run this test 5 times and IAC will function incorrectly 2 out of the 5 times. Though they both are indications of the amount of opening through the throttle body, the TPS is the throttle opening percentage and the IAC number tells us how far the IAC stepper motor is opening the bypass air circuit.If I understand you correctly you are saying that the TPS reads somewhat normally (traveling from 9% to 100% or so) but that when you cycle the key it once again starts at 9%. EFI parts, including the throttle body, and the problem persists.Please give me a hand. Capability Range: Professional Adding a wrap to the return spring on the shaft is one alternative to solving this. The idle will not return to the set value.The second issue is the same as the first but the motor will stall out. However, I have what I will call a whistle at a throttle position on 35 - 50. This software is going to allow you to open both the configuration file and the datalogs that you create, overlay them and you can get a much better idea of what is happening. I took some pics of the sensors page this morning after the car warmed up. I have not heard of this. I managed to get the IAC down to around 0% - 8%is this good? Ilike a few othersam having idle issues. When I put it in gear, it drops so low that it will stall if I don't add throttle.
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